Located just a few miles away from Derby, Kedleston Hall is a spectacular stately home owned by the National Trust. While the magnificent mansion you see is neoclassical, the powerful Curzon family, who owned the hall, have lived in Kedleston since the 1150s. Unlike many wealthy families, they didn’t update and extend their grand houses, they built anew instead. When the time came to build Kedleston Hall, the medieval village of Kedleston was moved to make way for the great house, so the new village is contemporaneous with the hall. The only part of the medieval village left standing is the church, which you are able to visit and where many of the Curzon family are interred.
The hall is often credited to the then little known architect Robert Adam who shunned the paladin style of the day, instead taking inspiration from the classical style and adding movement. But the front of the house was designed by two different architects. Matthew Brett Ingham designed the sweeping wings while James Paine created the rest of the north front, leaving Adam to fill in the void behind. He certainly did a great job and this is often referred to as his greatest work.
The house was always intended to be a showpiece and most of the central part was intended as a display and for entertaining . The family lived in the east block, known as a pavilion, and when death duties forced the last heir to sell the house, a deal was struck to give the house to the trust in lieu of the tax, but allow the family to continue to live in the side wing. The west block contained the kitchens and servant quarters.
I’ll be honest, I’ve been before, but several years ago. The way in has changed and the new route brings you over the beautiful bridge and gives you a wonderful view of the hall. There is ample parking. You enter and purchase tickets in a small visitor centre before entering the grounds.
As mentioned earlier, the only surviving part of the original village is the medieval church, and at set times, 11-3, that is open to the public. It’s certainly worth a look. The tombs date back hundreds of years. They trace the Curzon family, which is probably why the church was left standing when the rest of the village was demolished to make way for the hall. There are two really unusual burials at the front of the church. I’ve certainly never seen anything like them.
Entry to the hall is through the lower floor and, if you’ve been before, this is when you start to feel it’s changed. It’s been cleansed of a few historical pieces that may cause offence to the modern eye. When I’ve visited before, I’ve always taken these as history and not viewed them as I’d view the same thing being produced now. The way from the entrance is stairs up. I didn’t see a lift, so if you have mobility issues, it’s worth checking in advance to see if they can facilitate a visit.
Having been designed to be a showpiece, the main rooms are stunning. Marble columns, huge windows, ceilings and beautiful furniture. The route takes you through the showy rooms and what must have been guest bedrooms as the family lived in a wing. The final part of the visit takes you to the collection. The family travelled a lot and held official positions in India, so it is quite a vast collection. Weapons are heavily featured, many ceremonial. Having been before, I noticed a few items that were no longer on display, including the magnificent peacock feather dress worn by Lady Curzon for the coronation of Edward VII. I’m hoping that it is soon returned to the display. I’m not (as anyone who knows me will testify) into frocks or fashion, but this dress was something else.
When you have enjoyed the glamour of the hall and the incredible collection (half of which was left to the Victoria and Albert museum, with the remaining half left for the purpose of establishing the museum at Kedleston Hall), it’s time for a wander around the grounds. There are no splendid gardens full of roses and flowers as in many stately homes. At the back of the house is a lovely lawn with some interesting trees, which blends in with the pastures behind . I didn’t even know there was such a thing as a pin oak. Now I want one. To the front is a vast expanse of lawn down to the river and bridge, with the grazing land beyond. If you do wander down, watch where you walk. Let’s just say the ducks and geese aren’t too fussy about where they go to the loo, and there are a lot of them.
Kedleston Hall is a pleasant way to spend an afternoon if you enjoy a visit to a stately home and like a walk in peaceful surroundings. It’s not cheap, but keep an eye out for a free pass. Some newspapers offer a free visit to some National Trust properties around October, and you can also get the same offer on the National Trust website. Keep your eyes peeled.
